Church architecture in Hertfordshire and elsewhere, art, books, and whatever crosses my path

Monday, 8 April 2019

Sandon church, Herts: I like big buttresses and I cannot lie


The first thing you notice about Sandon church as you walk through the lych gate is the early 15th century tower, and specifically its gargantuan brick buttresses. 


These were added in the 17th century* when presumably the tower was believed to be in danger of collapsing down the hill. Whoever built them was evidently more interested in practicality than elegance; they're like Brobdingnagian slices of cake, but no one could claim that they don't make the church memorable. I rather like their no-nonsense, let's-get-this-job-done-once-and-for-all attitude. Incidentally, the brick courses aren't horizontal, but slope inwards, probably to try to make them structurally stronger.




Most of the rest of the church is essentially 14th century (though restored in 1832, by Ewan Christian in 1875, and in 1909). The chancel was demolished and rebuilt in 1348, which we know because, most unusually, the contract for the work survives. (You can read it, as long as your Latin is up to the job, here, along with a brief introduction in English. I can't find an English translation online, but here you can read an extract from what seems to be an important book published in 2017 which discusses the contract; unfortunately the extract is curtailed just when the discussion is getting into its stride. I shall head to the library at the next opportunity to investigate further.)**

The contract is between the Dean and Chapter of St Paul's Cathedral, who owned the advowson of Sandon, and Thomas Rykeling (or Rickling as we'd spell it). He was paid twenty marks (a mark was a two-thirds of a pound, 13s 4d). It's extremely hard to translate medieval money into modern amounts, but the author of the English commentary on the contract says that it would be the equivalent of nearly £267 in 1914, which in turn is the equivalent of just over £30,000 in 2018 (the Bank of England's inflation calculator doesn't believe that 2019 has happened yet). Rickling would have had to pay for all materials and labour out of this sum. I think the Dean and Chapter got a bargain.

What's particularly interesting about the date of the contract, 11th July 1348, is that this was the year in which the Black Death reached England (by June). We tend to think that everywhere stagnated as the plague devastated Eurasia, but life clearly went on in Sandon. (There's nothing to suggest that the chancel took an unusually long time to build.) Maybe Sandon, as an isolated rural community, just got lucky and avoided the worst of the outbreak.


It's generally accepted that the Black Death marks the watershed between the exuberant Decorated style of architecture and the more austere Perpendicular. Most of the windows (including those in the chancel, which must date from soon after 1348) are in the latter style (there are a couple of rudimentary Decorated windows in the north aisle), but one stands out from all the others. It's the east window of the south aisle, and it's lovely. The Victoria County History dates it to 1360-70, but I can see no reason to think that it was designed after the stiffly traceried windows of the chancel, and Pevsner's suggestion that it predates 1348 is far more convincing. It has four lithely twisting mouchettes, forming two Gothic yin yangs. Very unusually, the main arch of the window isn't really pointed at all. Why this is so is mysterious; presumably it was just a little quirk of the architect.



The interior of the church is light despite the almost complete lack of clerestory windows (there are two small ones at the east end of the nave designed to illuminate the now vanished rood loft). 


The loft is gone but the screen on which it once stood remains. It's 15th century, plain but dignified.


At the back of the nave are some similarly plain benches, though enlivened by poppyheads (some with faces), of about the same date. 



In the tower window there are some fragments of 14th or 15th century glass, including this angel who seems to be wearing a pair of wings as a skirt. His torso is covered in feathers like fish scales, and raises his right hand in blessing, though it looks more like a cheery wave. There are a few other bits and pieces of glass, less decipherable, in other windows.





On the floor in front of the screen is this better than average brass, to John Fitzgeffrey (d.1480) and his wife Elizabeth. His armour reminds me of a beetle's shell, and she poses with her fur-trimmed robe and extravagant butterfly head-dress as if for a fashion magazine.  He stands on an ox (which animal also appears on his heraldic shield), while she has a tiny dog with belled collar at her feet. We don't know when she died as, although a space was left on the brass for her date of death, no one ever got round to filling it in. The brass on which their sons appeared has disappeared, but that on which their daughters feature remains. Unusually, their names are given: Agnes, Elizabeth, Elizabeth (probably the first Elizabeth predeceased her sister), Elienor, Jane and Margarett.




Even better is this monument to Nicholas F Miller, who died in 1747, aged eighteen. The bust captures something of the youthful zest of the deceased (though his hairstyle is somewhat absurd). The coloured marble***stylised flames issuing from the lamps at the top are particularly brilliantly carved. The monument is attributed to Sir Henry Cheere (1703-81), who had a highly successful career as a sculptor and was made a baronet. (He also, according to Wikipedia, had a daughter named Charles.)



The Jacobean pulpit is a very decorative piece.



Moving from the nave into the chancel (which as we've already seen was built soon after 1348) we find that although the windows are in the brand new style now known as Perpendicular, the interior details are still in the earlier style we call Decorated. The sedilia (seats for the clergy) and piscina (drain for washing the communion vessels) are ogee-headed, in other words have the distinctive S-shaped arch. The small Easter sepulchre on the north side (in which the consecrated host was placed on Good Friday and removed on Easter Sunday, reenacting the Resurrection) has five little crocketed gables, and the arch is adorned with tiny rosettes, a typical feature of the style (it can be seen on a grander scale at Wheathampstead elsewhere in the county, for example). So in some respects Rickling was a stylistic pioneer, but in others he was conservative.

Sandon church wouldn't feature on many people's list of the ten best churches in Hertfordshire (it doesn't even make John Betjeman's list of the 53 best), and yet there is plenty here to reward a visit. (I've always found the church open.) The richness of the heritage of England's parish churches runs deep.



* Though here it is claimed that the date 1763 can be found on the brickwork; I haven't looked for the inscription so can't confirm this.


** I've now been to the library and read the relevant part of the book (Church Building and Society in the Later Middle Ages, by Gabriel Byng, CUP, 2017). Here's what I learned:

The contract was handled by two canons of St Paul's, Alan Hothorn (d.1352) and John Barnet (d.1373). The contract was signed in Sandon rather than London, though so far as we know neither Hothorn nor Barnet had any connection with it. Hothorn was personally wealthy and was, or had been, the rector of several parishes. Building work had been carried out at more than one of his churches, so he may well have had experience of commissioning buildings.

The contract doesn't refer to any other building or plan (as some other of the forty or so  surviving English medieval contracts for parish churches). But it is precise and relatively detailed, specifying the dimensions, materials (Barnack stone for the buttresses, 'good white stone' for the rest), windows (three lights to the east, two on the north and south), buttresses, door and foundations. 

As well as the twenty marks Rikelyng could keep the materials of the old chancel (though naturally he would have had to pay to transport them away). His heirs and executors were bound to complete the work if he died before it was finished, but no time limit was specified. Who was to assess the quality of the work and make decisions as it progressed isn't specified. Maybe a manorial officer would have done this. Perhaps Hothorn and Barnet would have visited to keep an eye on things. 

Rikelyng would have had to pay for the materials and their transport out of his salary. Other contracts, for the roof and glass, would have existed (but have long since been lost).


*** Or could it be cast metal?











Thursday, 28 March 2019

The Ten Best Hertfordshire Churches


Compiling this list is presumptuous and premature. Presumptuous because who am I to proclaim the ten 'best' Herts churches (or the ten 'best' anything)? By 'best' of course I really mean my ten favourites at this moment in March 2019. Ask me next month and no doubt I'll give you a different list. Premature because I shouldn't have the cheek to compile this list until I've written about a lot more than the twenty-five or so Herts churches that I've so far got round to covering on this blog, so my choices would be more fully considered and better justified.

My list includes only Church of England parish churches that I’ve been inside. This means that Ayot St Peter is excluded because I’ve never found it open; its inclusion by Surman and Jenkins suggests that it would be a strong candidate if it were open more often.

For comparison, and for your interest, I've appended five other lists of Herts' best churches (two of which, Surman and Jenkins, admit for consideration Roman Catholic churches).

Enough waffle. Here's my list of the ten best Hertfordshire churches:

Little Hormead


Anstey from the south
Anstey appears on all the lists except Budden’s below, so I'm on safe ground with this one. The mermen font, the Norman crossing, the EE transepts and chancel, the misericords and the Patrick Reyntiens window combine to make this unmissable. (Open during the day.)

Ayot St Lawrence from the (ritual) west
Ayot St Lawrence (which features on three of the lists below), built 1778-9 and mostly unaltered since then, is a mixture of Greek Revival and Palladian. It scores extra points for rarity, but even if the county and country were dotted with other examples it would still be worth visiting. (Open during the day.)

Little Hormead, north door. Photo taken from the Herts volume of the Royal Commission on Historical Monuments, published 1912. 
Little Hormead features on two of the lists below. It has only one outstanding feature: but what a feature. This is the Norman north door, with its entrancing ironwork. However, a visit to see the door will also be rewarded by a good 14th cen font and 1660 royal coat of arms, plus the pastoral setting. (In the care of the Churches Conservation Trust, but, unlike nearly all their other churches, is currently closed, and has been for some years, while the door awaits conservation. See their website to arrange access.)

Meesden, the mosaic tile pavement
Meesden doesn't appear on any of the other lists. The fact that it's overlooked is one of the things I like about it. Like Little Hormead, it has one exciting and rare feature which is alone worth a visit. This is the 14th century mosaic tile pavement around the altar. The Tudor brick porch, and secretive sylvan setting on the edge of a wood, are additional attractions. (Open during the day.)

Offley from the south-west
Offley has been difficult to get inside for several decades. I last saw the interior in the 90s. (Kings Walden, in the same benefice, is similarly denied to interested visitors.) The EE nave has alarmingly unvertical columns with richly carved stiffleaf capitals, but it's the 17th and 18th century monuments, concentrated in the c.1777 chancel, that make this church special. (Locked. No keyholder.)

St Albans (St Michael), figure from the Doom painting
St Albans (St Michael) features in two lists; it's not as beautiful as some of my other choices, but it's unusually interesting in displaying examples of all five major English medieval building styles: Saxon, Norman, EE, Dec and Perp. Plus there's the Bacon monument and the substantial remains of a Doom. (Usually open, but sometimes locked, especially in winter.)

 St Paul's Walden, chancel screen
Perhaps I've allowed sentimentality to influence me in including St Paul's Walden as it's the church I've visited over the years more often than any other, but it features on three other lists, so I'm far from alone in loving it. 14th century stained glass and the Georgian baroque chancel screen are the highlights, but I also like the Victorian painted ceilings. (Always open during the day.)

Sawbridgeworth from the south-west
Sawbridgeworth (on three other lists) is architecturally not particularly distinguished, but makes my list for its proliferation of monuments, dating from late medieval to Victorian, my favourite being that to Sir Walter Hewyt (d.1637) and his wife (d.1646). (To the best of my knowledge, always open during the day.)

Waterford, window by Douglas Strachan
Waterford, the sole entirely Victorian (and later) church I've chosen, is on only one other list, but most certainly should be more widely known and celebrated. It was built by Henry Woodyer, 1871-2, but again it's the contents that enthuse me, in particular the stained glass. There are numerous Pre-Raphaelite windows, and some early 20th century ones that don't suffer by comparison. Mosaics and fittings combine with the glass to create a simply unforgettable interior. (Locked, but keyholder listed.)

Wheathampstead, Garrard monument
Wheathampstead (on three other lists) is a big church that's full of interest. Dec is my favourite architectural style, and Wheathampstead is the county's chief example. As a bonus, it has an eccentric Victorian spire, numerous monuments, and a window by Douglas Strachan. (Open during the day.)

 
Here are ten more churches that are near-misses and that, in a different mood, I could easily have included: Bengeo Benington, BerkhamstedFlamstead, Hatfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hunsdon, Little Gaddesden, , Knebworth (St Mary and St Thomas), Wyddial.

Ashwell appears in all the lists below except Budden’s and yet doesn’t make my top twenty (not this time, anyway; as I’ve said, no doubt I’ll change my mind). Ashwell is grand and impressive, but, in my view, isn’t as atmospheric or as loveable as some much less grand churches, such as Meesden. (The same applies to Hitchin, which features on all the lists except that of Clifton-Taylor.)

There are several other lists of the best churches in the county (all of which are part of a wider survey of the best churches in the country). English Gothic Churches by Charles W Budden, published in 1927, contains the earliest of which I’m aware. Although the book is not far off a century old, it’s still a very useful primer. Budden’s list of the best churches embraces cathedrals; he includes about four hundred and fifty parish churches, but only five in Herts (plus St Albans cathedral). He makes it clear that ‘the fabric only is considered, not the furnishings’, which doesn’t apply to any of the other lists, and certainly not to mine.

Budden:

Broxbourne
Berkhampstead
Hemel Hempstead
Hitchin
Sawbridgeworth

Collins Guide to English Parish Churches, edited by John Betjeman, was first published in 1958, and as a two volume (North and South) Pocket Guide in 1968. (This version is still the most useful church handbook.) About 4,500 churches are included, 53 of them in Herts. Each county’s list was chosen by a different compiler or compilers; Hertfordshire’s was made by H. Gordon Slade. An asterisk marks an ‘exceptionally attractive church’; there are eleven of these in the county.


Betjeman/Slade:

Abbots Langley
Aldbury
Aldenham
Anstey*
Ardeley
Ashwell*
Ayot St Lawrence*
Baldock
Bengeo
Benington
Berkhamsted
Bishop's Stortford*
Broxbourne*
Buntingford
Bushey
Essendon
Flamstead
Flaunden (old church, ruin)
Flaunden
Gilston
Great Amwell
Great Gaddesden*
Harpenden
Hatfield*
Hemel Hempstead*
Hertford (All Saints)
Hertingfordbury
Hitchin*
King's Langley
Knebworth (St Mary and St Thomas)
Langleybury
Little Gaddesden
Little Hormead
Much Hadham
North Mimms
Offley
Oxhey chapel
Redbourne
Rickmansworth
Royston
St Albans (St Michael)
St Albans (St Stephen)
St Paul's Walden
Sandridge
Sarratt
Sawbridgeworth
Stanstead Abbots*
Stevenage (St Nicholas)
Tring
Ware*
Watford (St Mary)*
Wheathampstead



In 1974 Alec Clifton-Taylor published English Parish Churches as Works of Art, an often illuminating but sometimes irritating study. In an appendix he lists his choice of the country’s best, running to a total of about six hundred. Only seven Herts churches make the grade. (He awards an asterisk to ‘churches which are artistically quite outstanding, and [and which are] on no account to be missed by the amateur of churches’; however, no Herts church is thus rewarded.)

Clifton-Taylor:

Anstey
Ashwell
Barkway
Hemel Hempstead
St Paul's Walden
Stanstead Abbots
Wheathampstead

Simon Jenkins’ 1999 England’s Thousand Best Churches seems to have become the standard guidebook. It’s very attractively produced, and Jenkins’ mini-essays on each church are often thoughtful and deeply appreciative. Certainly it’s the one most often clutched by fellow aficionados when you bump into them amidst the pews and piscinas. It’s almost acquired the status of Holy Writ. I’ve met people in (Jenkins approved) churches who tell me that they’re ‘doing Jenkins’, which means that they’re probably overlooking the very interesting church just down the road. This isn’t Jenkins’ fault, but England’s Thousand Best Churches seems to me to encourage a tick-list approach.

He gives each church a mark out of five in the form of star ratings. He includes eleven Herts churches.


Jenkins:

Anstey**
Ashwell*
Ayot St Lawrence**
Ayot St Peter**
Hatfield***
Hitchin**
Knebworth (St Martin)*
Knebworth (St Mary and St Thomas)***
South Mimms*
Stanstead Abbots*
Watford (Holy Rood RC)**


Betjeman’s Guide was revised in 1980 and 1993. I haven’t consulted the lists from these editions. In 2011 it was given a major rewrite by Richard Surman, becoming Betjeman’s Best British Churches. It’s not become as ubiquitous as Jenkins, despite being as well illustrated and much more comprehensive. It includes about 2.500 churches (a bit more than half the number in the earlier editions), including Welsh and Scottish examples, and features 32 from the county. Some churches are singled out by one or two star ratings; six Herts churches are awarded two stars, and a further twelve get one.

Surman:

Anstey*
Ashwell**
Ayot St Lawrence**
Ayot St Peter**
Bengeo
Benington
Bishop's Stortford*
Broxbourne*
Flamstead
Great Amwell
Great Gaddesden*
Hatfield**
Hemel Hempstead*
Hitchin*
Knebworth (St Martin)*
Knebworth (St Mary and St Thomas)**
Little Hormead
Much Hadham
Offley
Redbourn
Sawbridgeworth
South Mimms*
St Albans (St Michael)*
St Paul's Walden
Stanstead Abbots
Tring
Ware*
Waterford*
Watford (St Mary)*
Watford (Holy Rood RC)**
Wheathampstead
Woolmer Green

Sunday, 3 March 2019

Hauxton church, Cambridgeshire: Norman patterns and a St Thomas Becket mural


(Google has unilaterally removed the comments from readers that appeared after some posts. I'm sorry about this; it wasn't my doing. As far as I'm aware it is still possible to leave comments, and they shouldn't disappear without warning.)

When approaching a church I know nothing about, it always gives me a little extra thrill of pleasure and anticipation if entry is through a Norman doorway. Although many churches have Norman origins, most of these were rebuilt during the subsequent Gothic period and now many have only a few vestigial traces of their origins. I like Norman, partly because of its relative rarity, partly because it's dignified, and partly for its antiquity. Apart from a few dozen surviving examples from the Saxon period, Norman doorways are the oldest in the country*; stepping through them is like going back nine hundred years. And if the doorway is Norman, there's a chance that further features from that period will be found outside and in.




Hauxton church, Cambs, displays its Norman origins as you approach from the south. The doorway dates from c.1100, and although the tympanum is disappointingly blank and the capitals badly weathered, the lintel is attractive. It has two rows of small squares, each square containing a saltire (an X-cross), which altogether make intriguing patterns of interlinked bigger squares and diamonds. A nearby tiny window has another lintel with carved interlinked rosettes; the two were probably carved by the same mason who obviously enjoyed playing with geometry. The ghosts of long-demolished Norman transepts are also visible.





After this appetiser we wonder if there's more Norman Romanesque to be found inside. Push the door open, and a quick glance reveals that indeed there is. The most prominent internal feature is the large chancel arch, which is imposing though fairly plain. On its north side it's been partly cut away by a smaller 13th century arch that once sheltered a nave altar.





On the other (south) side of the chancel arch is an arched niche containing an early 13th century mural of St Thomas Becket, who was murdered (or assassinated) in 1170 and canonised in 1173. It's well preserved, though at some stage in its history something happened to the wall, and his legs from the knee down have gone. (The image was probably painted over at the Reformation, though I can't find any documentary evidence for this, and whoever kneecapped the saint had no idea what they were doing.) The picture is stylised and hieratical, of course, but nevertheless conveys an impression of humanity along with the stateliness. He blesses with his right hand and holds a crosier in his left; his mitre is balanced somewhat perilously on his head.


The font, which has taken a battering at some time in its existence, is dated to c.1300 by Pevsner, but looks rather earlier to me (it's included in the Corpus of Romanesque Sculpture in Britain and Ireland). 





The pulpit is 15th century, and thus a relative rarity. It's clearly the work of a jobbing carpenter rather than a master craftsman, and all the more loveable for that. And that's an adjective that could well be applied to the whole church.





* Or are there any intact Roman doorways in Britain; the Pharos at Dover Castle, for example? And what about the entrance to West Kennet Long Barrow, built c.3600 BCE, and other similar prehistoric structures? My statement makes no sense, unless we assume I'm including only church doorways.