Icknield Indagations

Church architecture in Hertfordshire and elsewhere, art, books, and whatever crosses my path

Sunday, 23 November 2025

Writing about churches. Human or AI: which is better? There's only one way to find out ...

 


Recently I carried out an experiment. I've never knowingly used ChatGPT or other AI programmes (though I'm aware that often the first items in the list of Google search results are written by AI) and wondered what would have happened if my Herts churches book had been written by a computer. So I took my entry on Meesden (chosen because it's the church that appears on the cover) and submitted it to electronic emendation.

This is what I wrote:

Meesden church’s first attraction is its secretive sylvan location, unsignposted, at the end of an avenue of trees and all but invisible from the road, half a mile from the one-street village. It was substantially rebuilt by the prominent Victorian architect Sir Arthur Blomfield in 1876-7 (he is responsible, for example, for the very cute timber shingled bellcote), but the plain Norman south door reveals its earlier origins.
   The Tudor brick south porch is one of the church's two outstanding features. It was built c.1530, and no one seems to know why such a large and elaborate structure was added to what's always been a small, out-of-the-way church. By rights it should be the gateway to a much grander building, and the contrast is almost comically bathetic. Sadly, it’s been brutally repointed at some time, the cement being slapped on like butter straight from the fridge. One oddity is that the bricks above the corbel table are noticeably different from those below, being less flat, darker in colour and more regular in shape: in other words, they’re modern bricks, and the turrets and battlements are Blomfield’s excellent work (a fact unnoticed and unrecorded until now).
   The church’s star attraction, however, is the pavement of variously-shaped mosaic tiles around the altar, from the earlier fourteenth century. (They were perhaps made by the same tilers responsible for those, even more extravagant, in Ely’s Prior Crauden’s chapel, forty miles to the north.) They spread out from the altar, first of all in a fan shape, which is surrounded by a rectangular border, which in turn is surrounded by a bigger, more complex border. This outer border consists of nineteen circles, each of which contains a cinquefoil, which in turn are surrounded by four smaller circles. The colours have worn and faded over the centuries; what remains are mostly dusty yellows, dark greens, various shades of browny-orange and blacks. Many of them have been stamped with little designs: foiled circles, crosses, petal-like shapes, eagles. There are also two coats of arms of the Monchensey family, lords of the manor from the late thirteenth century. In the opaque yet relishable antique jargon of heraldry the design on the shields is known as Barry Vair and Gules (which sounds like a 1950s variety act, perhaps a ventriloquist and his dummy).
   The plainly panelled seventeenth century font has been broken into several pieces and stuck back together, possibly as the result of a short-lived ordinance of 1645 which effectively outlawed fonts in favour of basins. This law was never enforced with any great vigour; thankfully so, otherwise no medieval fonts would survive.



I don't claim this to be especially insightful or eloquent, but it is I think a recognisably personal response. It dishes up the key relevant facts (thanks to The Buildings of England ('Pevsner') and the Statutory Listing), and spices them up with a dash of atmosphere, a soupçon of history and a sprinkle of opinion. Most importantly, it conveys, I hope, my pleasure in visiting the church.

I asked ChatGPT to rewrite it in a 'professional and clear style'. This is the result:

Tucked away at the end of a tree-lined avenue, Meesden Church is a hidden gem, barely visible from the road and half a mile from the small one-street village. Its secluded, wooded setting is part of its quiet charm.

The church was largely rebuilt in 1876–77 by the noted Victorian architect Sir Arthur Blomfield, whose work includes the attractive timber-shingled bellcote. However, the plain Norman south door hints at the church’s much earlier origins.

One of the church’s most striking features is its Tudor brick south porch, built around 1530. Its size and ornate design are curious, as they seem out of place for such a modest rural church—it looks more fitting as the entrance to a grander building. Unfortunately, it has suffered from heavy-handed restoration, with cement repointing applied rather crudely. A closer look reveals that the bricks above the corbel table differ from those below—darker, more uniform, and less flat—showing they are modern replacements added by Blomfield during his restoration, a detail that has gone largely unrecorded until now.

The church’s true highlight, however, is the fourteenth-century mosaic pavement surrounding the altar. Possibly crafted by the same artisans who worked on the lavish floor of Prior Crauden’s Chapel at Ely, the design radiates from the altar in intricate patterns. The central fan shape is enclosed by two successive borders—the outermost comprising nineteen circles, each containing a cinquefoil, surrounded by four smaller circles. The once-vivid colours have softened over time to muted yellows, greens, browns, and blacks. Many tiles bear delicate stamped designs such as crosses, petals, and eagles, while two display the arms of the Monchensey family, the medieval lords of the manor. In heraldic terms, the shield is described as Barry Vair and Gules.

Another notable feature is the seventeenth-century font, simply panelled and now pieced back together after having been broken—possibly during the brief period in 1645 when fonts were outlawed in favour of basins. The law was seldom enforced, which is fortunate, as it allowed many historic fonts like this one to survive.



The first thing to notice is that the AI version is about 25% shorter than mine (344 words rather than 436). Conciseness is certainly no bad thing, but several little details are lost in the process, which, according to taste, means either that the description has less padding or less of interest.

The main thing this particular AI version (it must be possible to programme ChatGPT to do other versions - there's probably a button somewhere for 'write a recognisably personal response') does is blandify my words. It relentlessly grinds them down into a flavourless pap.

It introduces two cliches to the 1st paragraph, 'tucked away' and, even worse, 'hidden gem' (arguably 'quiet charm' too) - though I see that I've used 'star attraction' in my 3rd paragraph, which if not a cliche isn't far off, and is made even worse by the fact that I've already used 'attraction' in the 1st paragraph. My 'cute' becomes the relatively insipid 'attractive', and my 'brutally repointed' and a vivid simile become merely a 'heavy-handed restoration' and an adverb. Maybe the AI's 'more uniform' is better than my 'more regular in shape'. My little attempt to raise a smile at the end of the 3rd paragraph is cut completely (computers presumably don't have a sense of humour). 'Never enforced with any great vigour' is wordier than but surely more expressive than 'seldom enforced'. Why change 'medieval' to the less specific 'historic'? 

Nevertheless, I don't think anyone would recoil from the AI version if they came across it on a website, or even a book. It does the job reasonably efficiently, if without much character. AI is a threat to artists and artisans (I'm in the second category, of course); it's easy to imagine that guide books will soon be written by computers scouring, summarising and no doubt blandifying everything previously written on the subject (perhaps it's already happened). Novels and scripts, etc, will no doubt be next. Humans are better than AI, but AI is cheaper.

Sunday, 12 October 2025

Bayford church, Herts

 

Bayford, three miles south of Hertford, has a population of fewer than five hundred yet has its own railway station and primary school. Until 1867 its church was a chapel of ease (in other words, Bayford wasn't a parish in its own right, but was part of that of Essendon, about four miles to the west). Nevertheless it did have a church in the Middle Ages, on a site somewhere to the north of the current church; this was demolished (probably because it was dilapidated after many years of neglect) in 1803, and in 1804 a new church was built, of yellow brick and very likely utilitarian and unimposing. In 1867, as already mentioned, Bayford became a parish, and soon after the recently elevated parishioners began to feel that their new status deserved a more fitting edifice. Fortunately for them their number included William Robert Baker (1810-96), a scion of the wealthy Baker family who lived in nearby Bayfordbury. Their fortune was founded by Sir William Baker (1705-70), who was a long-serving director (and twice Chairman) of the East India Company, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company and an MP. Although the family's wealth had petered out by the early 20th century, in the later 19th century it was still sufficiently intact for William Robert to be able to spend £2425 on a new church (about £249,000 today, which won't buy you even a one bedroom house in the area now).

The church is surrounded by trees except on the north, which makes photography difficult

Henry Woodyer was the chosen architect (he was also responsible for two other new churches in the county, Langlebury (in Hunton Bridge) (1863-4), and Waterford (1871-2)), possibly because of his High Church leanings. His design, built 1870-1, looks as if it's intended to make the most out of a limited budget (an object it achieves very well). The primary material used is Kentish rag, a cheap but drab, dreary and undignified stone,* only minimally relieved by having quoins, and bands above the plinth and below the eaves, of red brick, and Bath stone dressings. The style is Early English, so the windows are mostly simple (and inexpensive) lancets. 

There's no (expensive) tower or spire, but a welcome vertical emphasis is added by the octagonal timber and lead flèche** (which doubles as a belfry).


The west front, with its wheel window and engaged shafts, is rather more showy.


The otherwise stark north and south fronts are enlivened by the roof of the chancel extending further down than that of the nave, and the large dormers with oculi. (The nave roof also has tiny dormers.)


The polygonal apse at the east end also provides visual variety and interest. 



But Woodyer reserves most of his resources for the impressively lofty (but dark) interior, especially the chancel. The chancel screen follows the Early English style of the architecture; as far as I know there are no extant large 13th century screens, but if any ever existed this is what they must have looked like. (I was forgetting about that in Stanton Harcourt - an original 13th cen screen, not as big as this one but otherwise similar in style.) The parclose screens are similar though plainer. 

Two questions: how often is it so hot in the church that a fan is necessary? And, being placed as high as it is, how effective is it?













The chancel is one of the best Victorian High Church ensembles in the county (I'd also mention BarleyHigh Wych and Holwell). The windows, plain lancets seen from outside, are enriched inside by trefoiled heads and engaged shafts. Over the altar the wall and window together form a reredos; the wall has a pair of two blind round arches surmounted by another, with a vesica piscis (or mandorla) between them, a shape rich in Christian symbolism (for example, it's often taken the signify the intersection between the earthly and the spiritual realms), a motif also used in the screen. The window has in its jambs blind arches and more vesicas; higher on the wall are more niche-like blind arches.

What's more, all this (and the ceiling) is lushly painted, with much gold leaf. The decoration was carried out in 1890 by the firm Heaton, Butler and Bayne (best known as manufacturers of stained glass) to designs by Sidney Gambier Parry (1859-1948), who was an architect in his own right. The figures of saints are stolid, but the foliage, especially the vines snaking up the jambs, is excellent.

The Agony in the Garden

Annunciation

Nativity

Christ before Pilate

Angels announcing birth of Christ to shepherds

Christ blessing children

Angel with Agnus Dei

The stained glass makes a valuable contribution too. The windows in the chancel*** (1871), and all those on the south and west, are by Clayton and Bell, a firm which produced much marvellous glass, especially early in their career. (There's a wonderful window by them, from just a year later, in Berkhamstead.) I never tire of promoting them whenever I can. I don't think that the Bayford windows show them at the absolute top of their game, but some of them - the Agony in the Garden above, for example - are good examples of their skill in creating satisfying compositions within a tightly constrained space (though the chancel windows, unlike most of those in the nave, cheat a little by using much clear glass to fill the extremities).

Left: Noli Me Tangere; Raising Jairus' Daughter;  Right: The Three Maries at the Tomb; Christ Healing the Paralysed (1871)

The Good Ruler; The Faithful Servant (1884)

Four Beatitudes: Left: Blessed are the merciful; ... they who mourn; Right: ... the pure in heart; ... the peacemakers (1874)

Left: Namaan; John the Baptist preaching; the Pool of Bethesda. Right: Baptism of the Eunuch; Baptism; Baptism of the Centurion and his family (1872)

Eight angels (1872)

The windows on the north of the nave are more recent, not by Clayton and Bell, and not as good.

Top left: Zacharias; top right: St John the Evangelist. Below: scenes from The Pilgrim's Progress, by Herbert Bryans (1904) (who trained with Clayton and Bell)

Top left: David; top right: Isaiah; below: Adoration of the Magi, by Herbert Bryans (1901)

Left: St Alban; St Augustine; right: St Amphibalus; St Gregory, by Ninian Comper (1899)

There are also several objects rescued from the old church.




The font is 15th century, and rather decayed. It has Tudor roses alternating with blind 'windows' on its sides. The font cover is elaborate and most enjoyable; it's very similar to that in Waterford. Presumably both are by Woodyer himself; (Bettley/Pevsner mention neither).




This fine monument is to George Knighton (d.1612); he is armoured and profusely bearded, and his boots are realistically creased as if much worn.

Bayford church is open on Wednesdays, and possibly some other days too.


* See the first footnote here for Alec Clifton-Taylor's opinion on ragstone.

** 'Flèche' means both 'arrow' and 'spire' in French. In English the word is used specifically for needle spires which sit on the ridge of a roof, especially but not necessarily at the junction between the nave and chancel, or where the transepts cross. A needle spire on a flat roof is not called a flèche, but a spirelet (or, in Hertfordshire, where there are numerous examples on towers, a spike). This distinction does not exist in French.

*** I failed to take usable photos of the Crucifixion above the altar, or of the west windows.


Monument to William Baker, (d.1824), the grandfather of William Robert Baker who paid for the church, by Sir Francis Chantrey